- Jun 11, 2022

FREE PATTERN: The Marigold Dress

Are you a beginner crocheter who wants to start making clothing? Or maybe you struggle to find a pattern that fits you just right and you’d like something that will perfectly fit your body?

Then this is the pattern for you!! This is a beginner-friendly crochet dress pattern that is created from the measurements of your own body! You don’t need to rely on any sizing at all, just your own body’s measurements.

You can customize the length of this dress and use any type of yarn, allowing for a unique look that expresses your creativity all while accentuating those gorgeous curves. I can’t wait to see the dress you’ll design!

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Difficulty

Advanced Beginner

Share your finished work by tagging #TheMarigoldDress and @mae.crochets. Happy crocheting!

Testers:

Materials:

Any yarn - testers all used worsted weight
I HIGHLY recommend using 100% cotton weight 3 or 4 yarn. If you use acrylic, it will stretch out.
See the testers section for a better estimate of how much yarn you’ll need
Hook that yarn suggests. If you need to, size down one size so that the double crochets are closer together.
Scissors
Stitch Markers

Sizes:

All Sizes! This pattern is worked up with measurements rather than the number of stitches.

Video Tutorials:

Abbreviations:

ch - chain
dc - double crochet
dec - invisible double crochet decrease
fdc - foundation double crochet
f/o - fasten off
inc - double crochet increase
sk - skip
st(s) - stitch(es)

Additional Notes:

This dress is worked from the bottom up.
You may find it helpful to create a gauge swatch first, and then do the math to figure out your starting ch amount.
VERY IMPORTANT!!: When measuring width measurements, stretch your yarn the farthest it possibly goes. Your yarn is going to have some extra stretch to it, so you’ll need to do this to have the best possible fit.

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Pattern

Measurements:

First, let’s grab some measurements! These measurements are taken down the side of your body unless specified otherwise.

A: Hip circumference (the largest part of your hips) - mine was 38”

B: Waist to the length you want the skirt to be - mine was 16”

C: Measurement between your hip (largest part) and your waist - mine was 8”

D: Measurement between waist and underneath your breast - mine was 3.5”

E: B minus C or (B - C)

G: middle of your nipple to outer boob (where you’d like the breast cup to end) - mine was 6”

H: height of breast (where you’d like the bra cup to cover up to) - mine was 8”

J: middle of your nipple to underneath your breast - mine was 4”

Skirt:

Row 1: Ch the length of A measurement and join to the first ch to make a circle.

Row 2: Create an invisible turning ch, dc across. Slst in the first dc, turn.

Row 3 - E measurement: repeat row 2. Don’t forget to turn after each row!

The skirt should now hit right in the middle of your butt/the widest part of your hips.

Measurement F = current stitch count (the number of dcs) divided by 4

Now, take two stitch markers and count the F-number of stitches from your starting point to the left and put a stitch marker, and once again F-number of stitches to the right and put a stitch marker. This is the point where you will be doing your decreases.

Continue ch 1, and repeat row 2 until reaching measurement B, however, place the dec where the stitch markers are, putting the stitch markers in the created dec as you go. Keep trying it on to make sure it’s fitting properly! You can also add more dec if necessary. If you do add more, keep dec around the stitch markers.

You should now be at measurement B.

Waist - Optional:

Row 1: Ch 4, *sk a dc, dc in next st, ch 1*, repeat between * until you reach the start of your row, slst in 3rd ch from the beginning ch 4, turn.

Row 2: repeat row 1.

Waist to Under Breast:

Row 1: Ch 1, invisible turning ch, dc across in all sts (including the ch 1 space if you did the waist part), slst in the first dc, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, invisible turning ch, dc across, slst in the first dc, turn.

Row 3 - D measurement: repeat row 2, adding inc if necessary.

Once you reach measurement D, f/o.

Breast Cups (x2):

Row 1: ch the length of G, turn.

Row 2: Invisible turning ch, dc across, turn.

Row 3 - J measurement: repeat row 2.

Next: Invisible turning ch, dc across until last st. Place a total of 5 dc in the last st. Dc down the left side of the square you just made by placing a dc in the middle of the previous row's dc, then in the middle of the row (2 dc on the left side of each row you made previously).

Note: If you have a smaller chest (like size A) you may want to only place 3-4 double crochets instead of 5 at the turn for a better fit.

Next Row: Invisible turning ch, dc across in every st, turn.

Repeat the previous row until your work reaches the measurement H.

Once you reach measurement H, f/o.

Sew breast cups onto the body of the dress. To do so, mark the middle of the front of your dress with a stitch marker. Then, start sewing from that point with the corners of a cup, working across the dress and the cup using the mattress seaming method.

Once the breast cups are attached, you can sew the middle of them as much as you’d like for coverage.

Straps (x2):

Measure from the very top of the breast cups over your shoulder to the top of the back of the dress to decide what the length of the straps will be. Make sure to stretch both the cups up and the back up to get the best measurements.

Row 1: Fdc the length you measured, turn. (make sure you’re stretching it as far as your yarn can go when measuring!!!)

Row 2: Invisible turning ch, 5 dc in the first dc, place 6 dc in each dc from the previous row. f/o.

Sew straps at the top of the breast cups and to where you measured from on the back of the dress.

The Border on the Bottom of the Dress:

Attach yarn to anywhere on the bottom of the dress. ch 3, place 5 dc in same st attached, place 6 dc in each dc across, slst to first ch 3, f/o.

Hide your ends and then you’re done!

You're done!!

I hope that you enjoyed this pattern! Share your finished work by tagging #TheMarigoldDress and @mae.crochets.